According to the Old Testament Mt. Gilboa (which is
really a ridge and not single mountain) is a place of
tragedy and triumph. Israelis flock here every year from
February to April to see the multitude of wildflowers
and the famed purplish Gilboa Iris (Iris Haynei).
It was here that Saul, the first King of Israel and
his sons died fighting the Philistines, “And it came to
pass on the morrow, when the Philistines came to strip
the slain, that they found Saul and his three sons
fallen in mount Gilboa”, (Samuel I 38:8).
Most of what is today a scenic road is what used to
be known as Patrol Way, prior to 1948. While most of the
road is now paved, you may actually want to veer off and
take some of the unpaved paths and walk a bit – to get
the best views of the valley. If you would like to have
a picnic, (the mountain almost beckons it), it might be
worth your while going a few minutes out of your way to
pick up a picnic basket first (see On the Side). There
are many picnic areas along the scenic route.
From the Gilboa you’ll be able to see they valley
below. This area of the Jezreel valley is known as the
Harod Valley and it is full of fishponds that attract a
great number and variety of birds including cormorants,
pelicans, storks, seagulls, and ducks. You’ll also be
able to see the hill of Moreh where the Philistines
assembled to fight Saul, Mt. Tabor (site of the
Transfiguration of Jesus), and the mountains of the
Jordan Valley. On a clear day you might even see Mt.
Hermon to the north.
David, who replaced Saul, lamented his fallen king.
In Samuel II 1:21 “Ye mountains of Gilboa, let there be
no dew, neither let there be rain, upon you, nor fields
of offerings: for there the shield of the mighty is
vilely cast away, the shield of Saul, as though he had
not been anointed with oil.” Over the years – some have
taken this curse this literally, as the reason for the
seeming baldness of Mt. Gilboa. But in recent years the
Jewish National Fund has planted thousands of trees that
have greatly changed the situation, although bald spots
are still clearly visible (see photo in related article,
Ein Harod).
Depending on what else you plan on seeing in the
area, decide whether you want drive from west to east
(entering near tel Yizre’el, which offers a spectacular
observation point of the valley). Or if you want to
drive from east to west, beginning in the Nir David area
(see related story Stockade and Tower). Nir David is
also close to the ancient Beit Alpha synagogue at
Kibbutz Heftziba. The scenic route is #667 and the road
that leads to/from Beit Alpha is #6666.
Late winter and early spring are the best time to
savor the full splendor of the Gilboa and they valley
below.
For a map of the area, see the Gilboa Map in this
issue. The scenic road is not numbered. It appears in
red, just above the words Gilboa Mt. (in
lilac).