While it bears no resemblance to the description that the proprietor of the shop assigns it, the description is perhaps nonetheless apt. Kurdi Hamudi is the affable shopkeeper of what he terms a ‘pharmacy of spices’. In fact, his business card says, ‘Drug Store’.

If you have pictured a stark sterile environment, you will have to revise your imagery. The counters, walls, and even the ceiling are all full here. It is the type of place that you will have a hard time knowing where to look first.

Upon entering the shop you will most likely be offered a small cup of coffee, the thick brew known locally as Turkish coffee, made from coffee that the propietor roasts himself. Somehow, this immediately creates a rapport between customers and the proprietor and puts people at ease.

Spices are taken very seriously here. Once you get a whiff of some of the various jars’ contents, you will most likely agree with the proprietor’s assessment of his shop, this is in fact a pharmacy of sorts, albeit not in the traditional sense. Interestingly enough Hamudi encourages prospective clients to open the jars and smell their contents. Perhaps it is because he knows you will be amazed at the quality of the contents.

Spice trade ran in his family and Hamudi is the third generation of buying and mixing spices from afar. According to him, it was his mother, who was extremely knowledgeable, and he learned much of what he knows from her.

Whether sampling dill, cinnamon or one of the shop’s 12 different types of curry powders you will most likely realize that the spices here are in a league of their own. This isn’t supermarket fair, to be sure. Saffron is kept in a vault, in small vials and the vanilla beans are amazingly long. While spices are available in the nearby Suq in bulk, the quality here is well worth the purchase.

It is not just the spices per se, that make a visit worthwhile. Here you can also receive advice from Hamudi, who enjoys cooking and can make many recommendations as to which spices go well with which foods. Spices may also be used to help alleviate a variety of maladies and the proprietor (one almost wants to say the ‘host’ as he is so pleasant) can recommend a myriad of uses beyond just cooking.

It is worth noting that this is the type of shop where the more questions you ask, the more information you’ll receive. Hamudi obviously enjoys what he does and is willing to spend extra time with those with a sincere interest.

Sadly, Hamudi does not ship spices, though he has been asked to do so, many times.

Kurdi Hamudi’s spice shop is located in the Old City. The official address is 13/261 – the Old City, but you’ll probably be better off, simply asking someone, once you’re in the Old City, since addresses are hard to follow here.

04/ 9916-188 TEL

Hours: Summer, 9:00 AM – 6:00 PM, Winter 9:00 AM –5:00 PM.