Almost since its initial production in ancient
Israel, wine has also been exported from Israel. The
pharaohs of Egypt favored Canaanite wine in the Bronze
Age and when the Egyptians ruled the area, some taxes
were paid in the form of wine.
In more recent history, letterhead of the Societe
Co-operative Vigneronnes de Grandes Caves Richon le Zion
& Zichron Yaacov Ltd., (Agudat Ha’Kormim) from 1934,
clearly shows that in the last century Israeli
winemakers had sales and distribution channels in,
Syria, Turkey, Belgium. Switzerland, Germany,
Czechoslovakia, United States, Africa, Australia, and
even New Zealand.
Therefore, it’s no surprise that wine
is being exported from Israel, today. However, the fact
that some truly good wine is produced here still seems
to elude many. Interestingly, part of the industry’s
former export success, lies with the export of
non-alcoholic ‘grape juice’ to Moslem markets.
According to the Israel Export Institute, the
country’s three largest wineries control over 83% of the
local market. Carmel, harvests 57% of the country’s
grapes, Barkan, harvests 15% (including the recently
purchased Segal Wines), and Golan Heights Winery,
harvests 11%. A sign of the booming local market, all
three of these wine growers are developing new wineries:
Carmel at Ramat Arad in the hills of the northern Negev,
Barkan at Kibbutz Hulda in the Samson region, and Golan
a winery in the Upper Galilee.
During the Roman era, a Jewish family consumed an
average of 350 liters of wine a year. This is an
astounding amount, especially when compared to today’s
domestic Israeli consumption of six liters per year, per
person. Six liters represents a considerable increase in
domestic wine consumption, which has risen in the last
seven years from a mere four liters per person, per
year. By comparison, wine consumption in countries such
as France and Italy is about 60 liters per capita.
During the Roman era, growing vineyards was one of the
most profitable industries, second only to only to
piracy on the high-seas.
Vitis vinifera (Vitis-vine, vinifera - wine bearing)
is part of the Vitaceae family of about 700 species
worldwide. Most of these species are tropical or
sub-tropical and Israel’s semi-arid climate is similar
to other great wine producing countries, such as Italy,
France, and California in the United States.
It is believed that vines originated in the mountains
of Ararat, or modern Armenia, although some have
suggested that they originated in the Shiraz region of
Persia. Vines thrive in rocky slopes, just one of the
reasons they do well in the local topography. It is
estimated that vines and the production of wine in
Israel commenced sometime in the Chalcolithic Era.
The word yayin was used to indicate fermented
or unfermented wine. According to Encyclopaedia
Judaica (1971), the word is described as follows;
"The newly pressed wine prior to fermentation was known
as yayin mi-gat (‘wine from the vat;’ Sanh 70a),
yayin yashan(‘old wine’) was wine from the
previous year, and that from earlier vintages, yashan
noshan (‘old, very old’)." The noun yayin is
used to describe wine in the Old Testament, 141 times.
The Talmud mentions more than a dozen types of wine.
In the Jewish tradition, wine is used in a variety of
rituals, during Friday evening service, in wedding
ceremonies, on Holy Days, and especially during
Passover, when Seder participants drink four cups of
wine. Additionally, on Purim it is considered to be a
mitzvah to become so inebriated, that one cannot
distinguish between Haman and Mordechai. It is
interesting to note that during the Mishnah era, the
price of wine was about half that of olive oil and
equivalent to that of meat.
The modern evolution of wineries in Israel can be
divided into three distinct phases.
1) Rishon Lezion and Zichron Ya'acov the first Jewish
agricultural settlements of the late 19th century chose
vineyards and winemaking as their main industry. Baron
Edmond de Rothschild sends his experts to introduce
viticulture.
2) After the formation of the State of Israel in
1948, wineries such as Askalon (now Segal) and Eliaz
(now Binyamina) were established.
3) Israel’s modern wine making history begins in the
1980’s.
The real changes in the local wine scene took place
in the 1980’s. This era witnessed technological changes
that have often been compared to the wine revolution in
California, 35 years ago. New grape varieties were
planted in cooler higher altitudes, winemaking expertise
was imported; new wineries were built while existing
wineries invested in new equipment. Today there are over
30 wineries in Israel and the main exporters are Carmel,
Barkan, Golan Heights, Efrat, Binyamina, Tishbi, Dalton
and Castel.
In the last ten years, a new wine culture has slowly
evolved in Israel. Once, wine purchases were limited to
supermarkets that typically carried a limited selection.
Today, over 900 wines can be purchased in specialty wine
stores that carry everything from the wine itself to
accessories and even imported wine refrigerators. Wine
courses and wine-tasting have become all the rage.
“The land area of vineyards in Israel has doubled in
the last five to six years, and this increase can be
seen across all types of quality varieties. The harvest
in 2000 yielded over 40,000 tonnes of grapes. This is
expected to grow to 60,000 tonnes by the year 2004”,
states a report by the Israel Export Institute.
The Middle East is the cradle of viticulture. In
Israel, winemaking goes back to biblical times. Don’t
miss out on tasting Israeli wine both abroad and during
your next visit, when you can sample some of the wines
that are not exported.